We visited E. Dehillerin today, the venerable French cookware store dating back to 1820. Readers of Julia Child will recognize this as the place where she bought her utensils when she lived in France and studied at Le Cordon Bleu. It sells primarily to the trade and carries immense pots and pans and whisks suitable for use by giants, as well as teeny-tiny tart pans almost fit for a dollhouse. Kim, a salesman, recounted an anecdote about The Barefoot Contessa who shared her philosophy of life with him, essentially to be 'nice while you're here on earth'.






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